Sailing in the East Caribbean

Sailing in the East Caribbean

by Nate Bender

3/4/2016

Sailing, such as in a boat, caught my full attention in 1987, in the 44^th year of my life. Our street neighbors and evolving friends in Cleveland, Ohio were catalysts and Lake Erie became the launching place of my enrapture.  Preceding this time, during our courtship phase, Sandra invited me to take a sailing course, which prepared me for what was to come later.  She was a walking, talking sailor, further adding to her alluring ways!  

Purchase of a 27’ O’Day sailboat, with its shared ownership with Bob and Judy Charlick, lifted my sailing interests to a whole new level.  We named her Dayenu (‘this in itself is sufficient’), a name triggered by our co-owners with ties to the Jewish religion.

Day-sailing excursions and annual treks across the lake to Canada allowed my sailing skills and visions to expand.  In short order I dreamed of ‘blue water’ sailing, including circumnavigating on the worlds’ great waters and living aboard for a year or more.  And, it became ever-so-clear the long-distance dream had to wait until I won the lottery or maybe upon retirement.

In the ever-resident conversations around all things related to sailing, a new opportunity was introduced…..blue water sailing in the Caribbean waters.  I could have a taste of my dream from a weeklong excursion in 1989.  Sandra and I teamed up with two other couples, our boat partners Bob and Judy and Ron and Joan Kohn to bare-boat out of the island of Saint Vincent in the East Caribbean’s windward islands region of the Grenadines.

The Grenadines consist of the islands of Saint Vincent, Bequia, Canouan, Mustique and Union, and a group of smaller (many unpopulated) islands. Save for Saint Vincent, all are low-lying, ringed by coral reefs, and famed for some of the best beaches and sailing conditions.  By bare-boating, we were our own captains and navigators, and responsible for provisioning, which involved purchasing and preparing food and drink for six people for a week long period.

Our rental boat was big (44’ long), heavy and forgiving, allowing ample space, safety and comfort for all.  A southern sailing course with island hopping was the obvious agenda, which allowed anchoring for over night stays.  Our first day launch was momentous.  Once we encountered the expected 25-knot breezes out of the east and had set the sails, my exhilaration resonated to the depths of my bones!  I was home on the rolling waters, as if in nature’s bosom, safe and secure. 

Avoiding the details of frolicking with my wife, I will instead describe a few exciting adventures….one involving running aground….one snorkeling in the Tobago Cay amid the most beautiful coral reefs imaginable…. and one involving spear fishing with a native man off the island of Canouan.

Running aground required an unexpected and exciting rescue effort.  Shortly after setting off from Palm Island, we came to a jolting stop on top of a coral reef.  We had misread our map.  Our boat began to list (precariously leaning to one side), creating confusion and a panic-like state around what to do next.  Seemingly out of nowhere came a powerboat with an older white man and two black natives aboard.  With little consultation, John, the white guy, dived into the water beneath our boat to assess the problem.  He resurfaced bearing a bleeding arm and a plan for recovery.  In rapid fashion, a long rope was affixed to our boat and his, to pull our boat backwards off of the reef.  Offers to compensate his efforts were rejected, endearing me to the generous spirit of the people of the Grenadines.

Tobago Cay presented a memorable opportunity for me to snorkel in its shallow waters.   The waters held a wide array of fish swimming in and around the most beautiful coral I have ever encountered.  The blue hue of the warm water complemented the white sands and surrounding colorful fish, adding a special luster to the experience.  I felt deeply connected to the purity and beauty of nature that had not been altered by human endeavors.

The last memory to be captured involved spear fishing.  Anchored in a cove on the west side of Canouan Island, Judy and I welcomed an invitation to join a local native in his spear fishing efforts, including landing some lobster.  We watched him dive into the depths while we hovered near the surface.  Dive after dive and catch after catch, we marveled at his lung capacity as he secured his catches in his swimsuit.  He gave the entire catch to us, making for multiple meals to be had.  He even fileted the fish for us.  Furthermore, he wanted no compensation.  It seemed like he benefited as much from the gifting as we did in being the receivers.

Our story telling was rich and exuberant as we indulged ourselves in a concluding meal and reminisced about what each of us had gained from our sailing experience.  I took the Caribbean glow back Cleveland, infusing it into my personal and professional undertakings.  My life had been enriched beyond any dreams!

I am including a song by Peter Mayer that has become my theme song:

Blue Boat Home

by Peter Mayer

Though below me I feel no motion

standing on these mountains and plains.

Far away from the rolling ocean

still my dry land heart can say:

‘I’ve been sailing all my life now,

never harbor or port have I known. 

The wild universe is the ocean I travel

and the earth is my blue boat home.’

Sun my sail and moon my rudder

as I ply the starry sea,

leaning over the edge in wonder,

casting questions into the deep.

Drifting here with my ship’s companions,

all we kindred pilgrim souls,

making our way by the lights of the heavens,

in our beautiful blue boat home.

I give thanks to the waves upholding me,

hail the great winds urging me on,

greet the infinite sea before me,

sing the sky my sailor’s song:

‘I was born upon the fathoms,

never harbor or port have I known.

The wide universe is the ocean I travel,

and the earth is my blue boat home.’